The Substance Review: A Gruesome And Haunting Reflection on Vanity

The Substance, directed by Coralie Fargeat, is a daring and grotesque exploration of identity, self-worth, and the double-edged sword of fame. This satirical body horror film carves a raw and terrifying narrative about Hollywood’s relentless obsession with youth, as seen through Elisabeth Sparkle, a fading star whose journey into physical transformation spirals into a nightmare. Fargeat’s unflinching direction and a phenomenal performance by Demi Moore as Elisabeth bring both brutal honesty and layered complexity to a film that’s as grotesque as it is poignant.

Premise:

At its core, The Substance delves into the most primal and self-destructive tendencies of human nature. Elisabeth, an aging celebrity grappling with her declining fame, becomes ensnared by a serum that promises a youthful doppelgänger. When she agrees to inject “The Substance,” she doesn’t just create a younger version of herself—she births a new entity named Sue, played brilliantly by Margaret Qualley. The initial elation Elisabeth feels quickly morphs into envy and hatred, as Sue’s glamorous persona eclipses her own, igniting a vicious psychological battle between the two selves. Here, Fargeat masterfully illustrates that beneath the pursuit of eternal youth lies an insidious cost that cuts at one’s identity and sense of self.

Demi Moore shines:

Demi Moore’s portrayal of Elisabeth Sparkle is fearless and heartbreaking. She captures Elisabeth’s bitterness and vulnerability, transforming her into a tragic figure whose desperation drives her to extremes. This nuanced performance anchors the film with an emotional weight that makes Elisabeth’s grotesque decline resonate. Moore’s commitment to the physicality of her role—both in her aging character’s tragic deterioration and her subtle bodily transformations—is astonishing, painting a poignant picture of a woman whose identity is painfully fractured.

Margaret Qualley is terrifyingly brilliant:

Margaret Qualley, as Sue, contrasts Elisabeth’s fragility with a vibrant, unrestrained sensuality. Qualley’s Sue revels in her new life, flaunting the allure and freedom that Elisabeth has lost to time. The transformation scenes are visceral and uncomfortable, each shift in power reminding us of the fragility of identity and self-image. Qualley embodies this role with both zest and haunting detachment, making Sue’s descent into a self-obsessed, paranoid figure all the more chilling. Her role illustrates the youthful recklessness Elisabeth has tried so hard to retain, embodying her desire to be loved and admired by society in a skin that is not truly her own.

Plot structure:

The film’s plot structure is a perfect blend of satirical narrative and body horror, weaving psychological tension with graphic transformations. From Elisabeth’s physical alterations to Sue’s increasingly grotesque deterioration, the horror element amplifies the consequences of a life rooted in vanity and self-loathing. Fargeat’s direction doesn’t shy away from the revolting details, with scenes that are uncomfortably visceral, inviting viewers to witness the unsparing reality of Elisabeth’s decision. Rather than utilizing body horror merely for shock value, Fargeat uses it as a medium to explore the complex and often horrifying nature of self-destruction, vanity, and obsession. Each scene peels back a layer of Elisabeth’s psyche, exposing her flaws and her desires, and ultimately leaving her in a state far worse than when she began.

Visuals and effects:

Visually, The Substance excels in creating a haunting atmosphere. The sterile, cold aesthetic of Hollywood glamor clashes with the increasingly monstrous transformations, reinforcing the dissonance between Elisabeth’s public image and her internal agony. Cinematographer Benjamin Kracun captures Elisabeth’s grotesque descent with intimate, claustrophobic shots that convey her psychological suffocation. In scenes where Elisabeth’s once-glamorous world turns nightmarish, the framing and lighting are stark and unflinching, underscoring her isolation and decline.

The special effects and practical makeup work are nothing short of impressive, transforming Elisabeth and Sue’s transformations into visceral, tactile experiences that speak to Fargeat’s commitment to authentic horror. As Elisabeth’s body continues to degrade, the film never lets up on the visual horror, crafting an experience that becomes progressively unsettling. The costume and makeup departments contribute immensely, creating transformations that blend the surreal with a horrifying plausibility, ensuring that Elisabeth’s and Sue’s physical changes are as psychologically unnerving as they are visually shocking.

Themes:

Beyond the visual and narrative prowess, The Substance tackles thought-provoking themes. Fargeat doesn’t merely criticize Hollywood’s ageism and obsession with youth; she digs deeper, examining how identity becomes corrupted when a person’s sense of self-worth is tied solely to external validation. Elisabeth’s choice to use The Substance symbolizes the sacrifice of her personal identity and humanity to conform to an idealized, commodified version of herself. Her interactions with Sue, particularly as their conflict escalates, reflect the universal internal struggle between self-acceptance and societal expectation. This exploration of identity and autonomy becomes even more haunting as the film progresses, leaving viewers questioning whether Elisabeth’s decline is a reflection of society’s relentless pursuit of beauty or the loss of self that comes when one’s worth is measured by appearance alone.

Satirical bite:

Additionally, Fargeat’s use of satire is sharp and darkly humorous. The Substance mocks the obsession with perfection and the unattainable beauty standards placed upon aging women in Hollywood. Elisabeth’s interactions with other characters, especially the exploitative producer Harvey, highlight the insensitivity and cruelty often ingrained in celebrity culture. Harvey’s dismissive attitude and his eager embrace of Sue underscore the ruthlessness with which the entertainment industry discards those it deems obsolete. This satire makes the horror feel all the more real, as it roots Elisabeth’s experiences in a world all too familiar to audiences.

A haunting score:

Composer Raffertie captures the duality of The Substance’s tone with a score that seamlessly transitions between haunting and poignant. The music is especially effective in moments of transformation, amplifying the emotional impact of Elisabeth’s deteriorating identity. Combined with the chilling sound design, the score enhances the visceral atmosphere, drawing viewers deeper into Elisabeth’s unraveling psyche.

Overall:

In its chilling final moments, The Substance pulls no punches, presenting an unforgettable and grotesque climax that cements the film as a poignant and horrifying critique of fame’s darker side. Fargeat’s film is as daring as it is disturbing, a reminder that the relentless pursuit of youth and beauty can leave an individual utterly unrecognizable, both inside and out.

The Substance is a visually arresting and deeply unsettling work of art, a satirical masterpiece of body horror that lingers long after the credits roll. Coralie Fargeat has crafted a film that isn’t merely shocking but reflective, offering a critical commentary on a society that values youth and beauty over authenticity. Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley give career-defining performances, bringing this haunting tale of vanity and self-destruction to life with staggering impact. This film is a must-see for anyone intrigued by horror that holds a mirror to society, showing us the price we pay when we trade our true selves for a fleeting reflection.